Textile printing has been around since approximately the 3rd century BC. It is the process of applying colour in a pattern or deign on fabric. Printing can use multiple colours unlike dying. There are many different printing methods that have developed over time.
Woodblock/ Block printing
Woodblock also known as Block printing was one of the most popular common methods of printing. This technique of printing originated from China around 300BC. Block printing is often done by printing with wooden blocks, mainly performed on materials such as silk, cotton and linen. Earliest existing samples of block printing are from the beautiful, natural floral pattern.
Block printing is an extremely simple method for repeated and revisited patterns, which was made by reinking and reusing the block.However for multiple colours each block is individually inked and overlaid. This type of printing has heavily influenced printing till this present day, influencing artisan printers. This method is also massively used still in India.
Woodblock/block printing was the old way of printing spectacular detailed patterns onto fabric garments. However this process of printing is used less today due to the time taken for this technique of printing.
Jaipur Block Printing
Jaipur block printing originated in China approximately 4500 years ago. However it reached it's highest expression in India slightly later. This Indian print making is done by eye and embraces imperfections as part of the Beaty and humanity embodied within the craft. Indian fabric experts are experts in natural plant dyes and mordants.
This process of printing was not just for royalty and extremely wealthy, but also spread into the wider population and broader market. This printing was particularly desirable for making clothing and garments for festivals. These designs became extremely popular in the west in the 1960s/70s with the hippy movement.
The East Indian Company
The east Indian company was a private company that came to rule India in the 19th century. This company was chartered by queen Elizabeth 1st on the 31st of December 1600. It was originally formed by London merchants who hoped to trade spices with Indonesia. In the early 16th century they began trading with the mogul rulers of India. They set up trading posts along the coast, this eventually became the cities of Bombay, Madras and Calcutta. This company primely traded silk, cotton, tea, sugar and opium.
The larger printed textiles trade began as chintz and paisley grew I popularity in the early 17th century. This brought printed cotton to England. The East Indian company has highly problematic history based on slavery and imperialism.
Printed textiles in Europe
Block printing slowly gained popularity throughout Asia, India and Europe. Textile printing became known in Europe throughout Islamic work in the 12th century. European dyes were poorly not effective and would liquidise, so attempts at patterns were limited.The printed textiles in Europe restricted to decorative pieces that did not need washing, as the patterns would be lost. Fine cotton fabrics patterned with rich colours and dyed floral designs were from the early 17th century. In the later 17th century the French imports brought blue and white patterns and resist printing.
Chintz
By 1680 millions of pieces of chintz were being imported to England each year. Chintz were mainly used for soft furnishings and curtains. They began being used as clothing when old used fabrics would be passed onto servants for them then to make their own textile clothing. English and French mills became worried as they were unable to replicate chintz and they were loosing custom. This lead to Chintz being banned in France in 1686 and also banned in England in 1720.
Loopholes however were found in legislation, such as in Versallies where they were 'above the law' and continued to use fabric. Individuals secretly sent out samples of the fabric and instructions on how to make it, hidden in other correspondence. The ban was eventually lifted in 1759 when mills learned how to make it for themselves.
French Printing and Toile De Jouy
Continuing to follow on from the popularity of Indian prints, 17th century France saw its own printing boom. Swiss born Christophe Oberkampf established his factory at Jouy-En-Josas near Paris in 1738-1815. Their products proved extremely sussecful, particularly ones created by the chief designer Jean-Baptiste Huet. They were highly known for pictorial cottons known as 'Toile De Jouy'. The images used included political genre, fables, myths, literally and floral patterns.
Copperplate Printing
18th century prints began to move slowly away from woodblock printing to copper plate printing. This technique of printing was developed in Ireland 1752. The prints were made in very similar ways by engraving the pattern but it created much more finer delicate details. Copperplate printing was limited to only one colour but woodblock printing could be applied over the top, overlaying with extra colours and details.It was extremely difficult to line up patterns, so it was often kept to one repeat or separated details eg: spots. This technique of printing eventually fell out of use by the end of the 19th century.
Calico Printing
Calico printing was invented in 1780 and used until 1820. Calico is a cloth similar to cotton but heavier than cotton in plain white creamy colours. This material is very good at absorbing dyes. Printers would draw out a map of the pattern on paper first before transferring it onto the fabric. It would be divided into squares, cut and transferred onto blocks, which enabled precision printing.
Calico print works spread through Switzerland, Germany and the UK. However the French remained most renowned for the technique with their artistic patterns.
Industrial Revoloution
The industrial revolution was the transition to new manufacturing processes, to hand techniques to mechanised, which took place in 1760-1840. Textiles was the most dominant industry in the industrial revolution with huge implement, mass production and great capital. The factories were focussed around mill towns in the North of England.
Roller/Cylinder Printing
This was a v very similar method to Block printing but it used engraved cylinder rollers rather than flat blocks.This printing technique was much more capable and faster making larger prints, with multiple colours. This was also a cheaper method of printing. The fabric was taken along a cylinder and pressed by a series of engraved rollers. Each individual roller could print a different exclusive colour. The cylinder machine was patented by Thomas Bell in 1783 and was used in factories across Lancashier from the 1790s.
William Morris
William Morris was a British textile and wallpaper designer from 1834-1896. Morris lead a revival of traditional techniques with the arts and crafts movement, using woodblock printing.
Morris's designs are still incredibly unique and popular today.
Screen Printing
Screen printing became widely used in the early 20th century. Although this technique of printing did previously exist in an earlier form in China. The process of this type of printing starts with a stencil made on a porous mesh screen (traditionally made of silk). Then a roller is used to pull ink over the screen forcing the ink to go through the mesh, creating a spectacular print. A separate stencil is used for each colour. Many individuals such as Roy Beck, Charles Peter and Edward owners studied and experimented with this method. This method revoloutionalised commercial printing. Andy Warhol is the most recognisable screen printer, however he specialised in art work prints rather than textile prints.
Michael Vasilantone
Michael was an enteprenear artist and inventor who created a multiple colours garment screen printing machine in 1960.
This technique of printing became massively popular for printing T-shirt designs and is still in high use today. T-shirts account for 50% of screen printing in the US.
Digital Printing
This technique of printing was introduced in the 1980s and revolutionised the modern fabric printing industry. It is an ink jet method, printing coloured dyes directly onto fabric. This technique of printing was originally used for small and mainly corporate orders.
It eventually gained in popularity through the 1990s. The early 90s saw the introduction of the sublimation printer, which uses heat sensitive inks. Digital printing best suits modern demand, keeping up with the regular rotation of the fashion calendar and highly graphic prints. Digital printing is extremely versatile, and can provide mass customisation.
Alexandra McQueens Digital Collection
The spring summer 2010 collection 'Plato's Atlantis' was McQueens last collection before his death. It featured high detailed digital prints, inspired by the natural world.
Commercial Printing Today
Screen Printing- Best for vibrant colours and simple bold designs, with its thick layouerd ink. Its also great for DIY home use.
Digital textile printing- (direct garment printing) Suited to high detail and intricate patterns from computer designs.
Roller printing- This is still the most popular method of printing used. Similar to newspaper printing. Very fast and economical for large amounts of fabric.
Contemporary Print Designers
- Luara Ashly
- Cath Kidston
- Timorous Beasties
- Catherine Rowe
My Design
For my design I wanted to create a captivating pattern on an appealing modern futuristic item of clothing. I decided to design a flared jumpsuit which featured a beautiful over sized bow. I designed this bow to be uniquely oversized to present an unseen look that looks modern and appealing to viewers eyes. I also created a low cut chest area and exposed areas on the side of the leg. This is to preform a modern look. I decided to make a floral like pattern taking ideas from a few historic individuals. The pattern I created and designed elegantly grows up the jumpsuit mimicking natures plants and beauty. Additional features on my design were the flared bottoms and puffy sleeves which complimented each other proudly making the pattern look bold and classy.
Over all I am pleased with my design as it creates a futuristic look but also has elements of old fashion within it due to the flared bottoms and the pattern.
The feedback from my fashion history pattern designs
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