The Japanese kimono
The kimono is an iconic garment which has popularised throughout history has significantly influenced Japan fashion because it is still worn today. The kimono is the ultimate signifier of Japan, it is revered within the country as the embodiment of national culture and sensibility, and is internationally regarded with excotic fascination. This symbolic status, and the fact that its basic shape has remained consistent over centuries, means that the kimono is often viewed as a simple, timeless garment.
The kimono is worn by men, women and children and it is the pattern on the surface, rather than the cut of the garment, that is significantly unique. Indications of social status, personal identity and cultural sensitivity are expressed through colour and decorative patterns. Originally worn by commoners, or as an undergarment by the aristocracy, from the 16th century kimono became the principal item of dress for all classes and both sexes.
What is a kimono?
‘Kimono’ simply means ‘thing to wear’. The garment was originally known as ‘kosode’, meaning ‘small sleeves’, a term that referred not to the overall size of the sleeve but to that of sleeve opening, which was just wide enough for the wrist and arm to pass through. There were many various names for style of kosode depending on sleeve length through to the wearer themselves. The word ‘kimono’ first appeared during the thirteenth century as a general term for the clothing.
The most distinctive characteristic of kimono is that they are straight-seamed garments constructed with minimal cutting from a single bolt of cloth. Two lengths of fabric drape over the right and left shoulder, hanggin all the way down the body, at the front and at the back.
A central seam at the back joins the two lengths together. Sleeves are then added so the sides, and separate. Narrower sections of the fabric form the collar. Today, the Kimono is most often worn on special occasions, although some older Japanese women (fewer men) wear them still on a daily basis. Sumo wrestlers are required to wear them when out in public. Over time the kimono has significantly influenced throughout history and generations. The kimono has unnoticeably changed over time, and therefore todays kimono withholds natural features and elements from the original historic kimonos. Todays kimono follows the basic style of the historic kimono, and still looks incredibly unique and captivating to look at. The spectacular patterns the kimono withholds creates beautified nature effects which is shown gorgeously with bright popping colours and is appealing to most viewers eyes. The kimono remains to be a solid statement of fashion in Japan, and when it is worn it represents culture and tradition.
The anatomy of the kimono
The Kimono is traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. Tan comes in standard dimensions, around 36cm wide by 11.5 metres long.
The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric; two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves. Historically, the kimono was often taken apart for washing as separate panels, and was then re-sewn each time by hand. The anatomy of todays kimono is still very similar with the same structural construction. The similarity of how the kimono is constructed today is by it being made from a single bolt of fabric.
How to wear a kimono
The Kimono is often worn wrapped left side over right and secured around the waist with a sash called an obi. The only exception is when dressing the dead for burial the right side of the robe is placed on top. It's considered incredibly bad luck to get this wrong. The wrap style allows for ease of movement - a useful feature for a culture where many activities are performed while seated on the floor. The kimono is also well-suited to Japan's climate, with unlined kimono worn in the humid summers and multi-lined kimono worn in the winter. Obi worn by men have historically been narrow and are positioned low, beneath the stomach.
For women, the obi was wrapped around the waist and were much wider. The way of wearing the obi for women creates a more fenemine kimono look, highlighting the hourglass figure of a women's body. From the obi being wrapped around the women's waist it creates a beatified style which emphasises the women's figure. The obi even became wider for women as the years went on, when more richly decorated obi became fashionable. This conception of clothing is very unlike that of the West and is born of a different notion of the relationship between dress and the body. Western aesthetics have tended to emphasize the wearer’s shape, whether it be the waist, hips, bust or buttocks, with supporting devices sometimes used to accentuate the specific features (corset). In Japanese dress, the shape of the body is irrelevant. The way the kimono is constructed creates a continuous flat plane that provides a platform for decorative design.
The importance of a sleeve
The sleeves of the kimono have great significance in Japanese dress. When you put on a piece of clothing for the first time, the expression used is sode a tosu, literally meaning ‘to pass one's arms through the sleeves’. Classical Japanese poetry is full of references to sleeves, from the smell of blossom on sleeves that recalls a lost love, to heightened emotions expressed through tear-soaked sleeves.
Young, unmarried women, and oftentimes boy, wold wear kimono with longer sleeves - a kimono known as ‘furisode’ which means ‘swinging sleeves’. Upon marriage, women would begin to wear kimono with shorter sleeves, and men would wear their sleeves shorter too. The Japanese Kimono traditions continue to make the kimono meaningful. The kimono carries its culture in many ways and the sleeves withhold meanings to the civilisation in Japan. Specific sleeve lengths of the kimono continues to hold meanings and is unique and individual to the Japanese culture.
Significant surface design
In kimono it is the pattern, rather than the cut of the garment, that is significant. Indications of social status, personal identity and cultural sensitivity are expressed through colour and decoration. The fact that the surface is the significant site of meaning in Japanese dress explains why the kimono has altered so little in shape over its long history. It is through the choice of fabric, colour, pattern and technique that the wearer expresses their gender, wealth, taste and occasion. Specific motifs were used to indicate virtues or attributes of the wearer, or relate to the season or occasion such as weddings and festivals where it bestows good fortune on the wearer.
Colours also have strong metaphorical and cultural meanings. Dyes are seen to embody the spirit of the plants from which they are extracted. Any medicinal property is also believed to be transferred to the coloured cloth. Blue, for example, derives from indigo, which is used to treat bites and stings, so wearing blue fabric is thought to serve as a repellent to snakes and insects. Colours also have strong poetic significance. Purple, for example, is a metaphor for undying love, the imagery deriving from the fact that gromwell (murasaki), the plant used to create the dye, has very long roots. Perhaps the most popular colour for kimono is red, derived from safflower (benibana). Red signifies youthful glamour and allure, and is suitable for the garments of young women. Decorative designs and colours on todays kimonos have remained very similar and the tradition of the specific decorative designs and colours continues to be presented. Red kimonos still remain a popular colour which look gorgeously appealing with the delicate decorative designs.
Kimono symbolism
Many motifs and designs that feature popularly on kimono have hidden meanings. Specific colours fit with certain decorative designs creating a surreptitious meaning through the design delicately presented on a colour.
Cranes (Tsuru). The most popular bird depicted on kimono is the crane. Cranes are believed to live for a thousand years and to inhabit the land of the immortals, it is a symbol of longevity and good fortune. A pair of crane’s are often featured on wedding kimono and is frequently combined with other lucky omens, such as a turtle, a pine or zuiun (auspicious clouds).
The Cherry Blossom design (Sakura) with its distinctive notched petals, blooms briefly and is fragile. It symbolises new beginnings, renewal (early Spring), beauty and the transience of life.
The Iris (Kakitsubata) is a running stream that evokes the tenth century ‘Tale of Ise’. A far travelling poet arrives at Yatsuhashi, sees irises in full bloom and is struck by longing for his wife, who is left in far away Kyoto. He writes a verse for her beginning each line with a syllable from the flower’s name ‘ka-ki-tsu-ba-ta’. This design signifies protection from evil spirits.
The Peony (Botan) is known as the ‘King of the Flowers’ and symbolises good fortune (wealth), high
honour (nobility) and ageless beauty.
The Pine Tree (Matsu) symbolises longevity, steadfastness and wisdom in age. This design is associated with winter and New Year. The design is Sometimes represented by the pine bark diamond pattern.
The Wisteria (Fuji) signifies love and is also used in many Japanese family crests (Kamon).
The Plum Blossom (Ume) is the first flower to bloom in the spring and is known as the ‘Flower of Peace’. This designs represents a protective charm against evil. It also represents longevity, renewal and perseverance. This design is identified by rounded petals.
The Chrysanthemum (Kiku) (and Spider chrysanthemum with wild tendril petals) is an auspicious symbol of regal beauty, rejuvenation and longevity. It is used as the Imperial Seal of Japan, and represents autumn and is associated with the Chrysanthemum Festival (Kiku-no-Sekku) held on the 9th day of the 9th month.
The Seigaiha is a pattern of overlapping circles, symbolic of waves and the ebb and flow of life. It symbolizes the desire for continued peaceful living, like the tranquil waves.
The Shippo is an infinitely repeating circular design representing the seven jewels or treasures from the Buddhist Sutras.
The Hexagons represent the pattern on a tortoise shell and signify longevity and good fortune. This design also represents traditional inspiration for Samurai armour designs.
The Diamonds or Pine Bark Diamond Pattern can be a more geometrical symbol for the pine tree.
The Peacock (Kujaku) bird is associated with love, good will, nurturing, and a kind heart.
The Drum (Taiko) represents joy. the decorative Ivy growing over a drum (used to warn of war) signifies peace.
The Scrolls represent learning, knowledge and a cultured life. This is one of the Myriad Treasures.
The Mountains (Yama) depict sacred places between heaven and earth. Birds flying over mountains signify overcoming life’s challenges.
The River (Kawa) or winding stream represents continuity and the future.
The Koi Fish represent good fortune or luck. This design also is associated with perseverance in adversity and strength of purpose.
Natural motifs
The richest source for kimono motifs comes from the natural world. Flowers such as peonies, wisteria, bush clover and hollyhocks frequently appear on garments.
Many of them, for example cherry blossom, chrysanthemums and maple leaves, have a seasonal significance. Pine, bamboo and plum are known collectively as the Three Friends of Winter (shōchikubai), and are symbols of longevity, perseverance and renewal. The pine tree is an evergreen and lives for many years, bamboo bends in the wind but never breaks, and the plum is the first tree to blossom each year. The plum is particularly favoured for winter kimono as its use suggests that spring is not far away. Birds, animals, butterflies and dragonflies also appear on kimonos, along with other motifs drawn from the natural world such as water, snow and clouds. On some kimonos whole landscapes of mountains and streams are depicted. The kimonos now still withhold many natural motifs which perform originality for the Japanese culture. The plum natural motif design is still popular in the Japanese culture and is favouritism hugely; worn regularly by Japanese citizens on special occasions.
Seasonal patterns
The patterns on the kimono can often determine which season it was historically (and still traditionally today) worn in. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring - these patterns signify the coming of spring, with the rebirth of nature (typically when cherry blossoms and butterflies appear). Watery designs, like the koi and waves are common during the summer. A popular Autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple tree, whilst winter designs may include bamboo, pine trees and plum blossom.
Above are a few examples of seasonal kimono designs. The seasonal designed kimono were popularly worn historically and has inspired significantly over time to be hugely worn today. Many Japanese citizens will still wear the Japanese kimono. However the kimono today is mainly worn by a wearer on special occasions.
The Kimono in Japan
Kimono patterns flourished in Japan during the Edo period (1615 - 1868). This was an era of unprecedented political stability, economic growth and urban expansion.
Fashion was a major social and economic force in Edo-period Japan. The demand for the latest styles stimulated technical advances, while a cult of celebrity encouraged spending on clothes. Kimono makers, retailers and print publishers worked together to exploit these commercial opportunities.
Fashion for the Foreign
For most of the Edo period, Japan operated a ‘closed country’ policy that severely restricted foreign relations. In the late 19th century, Japan became open to the world. The textile industry rapidly modernised, making fashionable clothing available to more people than ever before. From New York to New Zealand, a craze developed for wearing kimono. The Japanese responded by making garments specifically for export. In the early 20th century, the straight lines and draped form of the kimono began to exert an enormous influence on British and European designers.
Above are a few examples of the foreign designed kimonos that were popularly worn by the foreign citizens in the late 19th century.
Kimono reinvention
Since the 1940’s, the kimono has seen many transformations. In the aftermath of the second World War, Japan looked to its past for stability. The wearing of kimono declined, but its symbolic status was heightened. The Kimono became an important symbol of national and cultural identity. The kimono continues to have a major influence on international fashion, being re-interpreted by designers across the world, including in Japan. Recently, the kimono has witnessed a fashion revival and is now valued as a unique garment within an increasingly globalized world.
Hiro Takahashi
Designer Hiroko Takahashi’s kimono feature modern patterns and defy conventional views of the garment. Takahashi’s kimono are currently drawing attention around the world. One of her creations is featured in the permanent collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, which shows important design works and other artistic productions, in Britain.
Above are a few examples of her funky, bold, popping designed kimonos that withhold originality with symbolic status. Her designed kimonos show elements of historic features with how her kimono is put together. However they also present a futuristic unique style with the adventurous particular printed patterned designs.
Jotaro Saito
Go to linkGo to linkHaving begun his career designing both western clothing and the kimono, at the age of 27, Jotaro Saito made the decision to concentrate solely on the latter. His contemporary kimono, designed for both women and men, are inspired by the street and styles seen within the urban landscape of modern day Japan.
Having begun his career designing both western clothing and kimono, at the age of 27, Jotaro Saito made the decision to concentrate solely on the latter. His contemporary kimono, designed for both women and men, are inspired by the street and styles seen within the urban landscape of modern day Japan.
Above are a few of his designed kimonos that are advertising the urban landscape street wear through a gorgeous kimono. His style drives away from the traditional kimono patterns and designs, as he creates an unseen futuristic scenery of outside street wear, with a landscape designed pattern on the kimono. The colours of the kimono he designs specifically contrast with the original kimono colours. However his designs are favouratised hugely from him creating a new unique style of kimono, by still having the traditional shape of a kimono, however a different style of design and colour.
My design
For my fashion history kimono design, I wanted to illustrate a design that withheld originality but also presented futuristic elements to create a unique styled kimono. To create this specific design I made sure I mixed elements of originality from inspired past kimonos. Some of these elements included in my design were the seasonal patterns which I designed to grow beautifully up my illistraited kimono. I also used similar colours that were popularly used in the original kimonos so that I could keep the traditional style of kimono. This was to make my design appealing and likeable for viewers eyes creating an authentic look. The formilliar designed patterns and colours on my kimono will be accepted in the Japanese culture as it symbolises the importance the kimono withholds which is identity and nationality. To make my designed kimono more futuristic and unique I created a low chest cut area with the top of the kimono having one sleeve which I designed to be similar to the sleeves on traditional kimonos. This sleeve was attached to an oversized hood I designed on my Kimono. I also added an oversized bow to create more of a beautified style of hood. For the waist area of my designed kimono I followed the similar traditional way of an original kimono. For this, I designed a wrapped piece of material cinched at the waist. To create a more unseen designed kimono, I created a bow which loosely drooped down the back of the waist. I created a volumed poofy skirt from the waist down of my designed kimono to create a futuristic style, creating an illusion of a smaller waist. I also created my kimono to have a slit in the side so that is presented a more modern fashionable style. For the back of my designed kimono I created a modern laced back area which preformed elegance and beauty. The colours I selected to bring my designed kimono together were popular traditional kimono colours; red and blue. I specifically selected these colours as they compliment each other gorgeously and present a unique designed kimono.
Over all I am pleased with my designed kimono as I presented tradition and originality from an original kimono. Elements I used from an original kimono that inspired me to present in my design was the seasonal patterns. I embedded these patterns in my design as they create an elegant delicate design which would make a beautiful item in fashion. I also used traditional colours which I specifically liked as they complimented the seasonal pattern hugely on my design and created a beautiful kimono. The futuristic modern elements I added in my design I hugely admired as it fit with the original traditional elements gorgeously, presenting an overall traditional unique designed kimono.
The feedback from my fashion history Kimono design
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